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Best uses

A lovely addition to small home gardens and orchards alike. Try adding into a mixed bed for height and spring colour.

Physical characteristics

A deciduous, spreading tree quickly growing to around 5m tall and 3m wide dependent on pruning.

Flowers and foliage

This fruit tree produces 5-petalled pure white flowers in early spring followed by large spherical edible fruit with dark red skin and flesh. Fruit ripens from late January to mid-February. This cultivar is self-fertile so will not need another tree to produce fruit. Leaves are oblong and bright green.

Preferred site

Prefers full sun with well-drained soil and shelter from strong winds.

Preparation for planting

Always choose healthy, well-grown, plants and plant after autumn rains, when the soil is moist and warm allows trees to establish a good root system well before summer. Planting is often improved on clay soils by adding extra topsoil and forming raised beds. Incorporate coarse sand, bark, peat, compost or other organic material to improve soil structure. Before planting, ensure the root ball is saturated and remove the planter bag or pot with minimal root disturbance. Trim any broken roots or branches and plant at the same level as in the container. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the root ball to plant in. Long term slow-release fertilisers may be added at this stage. As soil is placed in the prepared hole tread firmly to bring soil in close contact with the root-ball. Unless the soil is very wet, water thoroughly making sure that moisture penetrates to the depth of the root-ball. In windy positions staking may be required. Use wide ties that hold securely without chafing. Tie firmly but allow room for the trunk to increase in girth without constriction. This allows the plant to move a little in the wind encouraging the development of a strong root system without the risk of chafing or root damage.

Maintenance tips

Apply an organic mulch annually to help suppress weeds and conserve moisture. Feed annually in spring with a balanced fertiliser such as blood and bone at a handful per square metre in spring as new growth begins. Japanese plums like this one often need fruit thinning, this is where the tree produces masses of fruit to the point that it is too heavy for the branches and if all the plums were left on then the quality of the fruit wouldn't be as good, the fruit would also be smaller. Once natural fruit thinning has occurred get in and remove fruit, leaving only one fruit per 10cm branch. It bears fruit on both one year old stems and spurs. Trees often end up producing lots of branches all crossing and interlaced, some of these will grow directly upwards and are often referred to as watershoots. Watershoots should be removed each year so the tree doesn't get too dense. The normal full prune can then be carried out in the winter months. Young trees usually don't require much pruning in the first couple of years until they get established unless they have dead, diseased or damaged or crossing branches. See our Pruning Guide for more information.

Ecological and biodiversity benefits

Attracts beneficial insects to the garden.

Pests and diseases

Caterpillars may damage leaves, as will rosella parrots. Silver leaf, a disease of the plum family can also be troublesome but you can guard against this by disinfecting your secateurs between pruning of each tree.

Location at Auckland Botanic Gardens

Orchard

Interesting facts and tips

This cultivar is self-fertile so will not need another tree to produce fruit but another tree to help with cross-pollination would help increase the size of the crop. Japanese plums produce fruit when the tree is around 2 to 3 years of age.

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