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Often grown as a large climber as it can get quite large and be trained over pergolas and arches to provide an absolutely stunning display as it flowers in abundance. It can also be trained against large trees and easily planted in cottage garden plantings.

Physical characteristics

A branching, deciduous, noisette rose, climbing to 3.5m tall and 1.5m wide dependent on pruning.

Flowers and foliage

This rose is often grown as a climber and flowers in abundance on and off from spring to autumn. Flowers are soft apricot in colour and have an open semi-double flower shape and sweet fragrance. Stems only have a few thorns, leaves are made up of ovate to elliptic leaflets which are lush mid-green in colour.

Preferred site

Most roses prefer full sun but will do well in light shade with rich, well-drained soil.

Preparation for planting

Always choose healthy, well-grown plants and plant after autumn rains as the soil is moist and warm and allows plants to become established before winter. This enables them to withstand dry periods during the following summer. Young plants require thorough watering during dry periods over the first two or three years. Mulching helps to conserve moisture and suppress weeds. Before planting, ensure the root ball is saturated and remove the planter bag or pot with minimal root disturbance. Trim any broken roots and plant at the same level as in the container. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the root ball and add in plenty of organic matter or compost to the hole place the plant in the hole but be careful not to plant too deep. The bud union of the plant should always be above the surface so plant at the same depth as it was in the pot firm in and water once planted. Make sure plants are watered well until established if planting in a drier period. Plant with some general slow-release fertiliser and then every spring apply an organic-based fertiliser such as blood and bone at a handful per square meter as new growth begins or mulch with well-rotted manure. This will give the rose plenty of nutrients to establish itself quickly. If planting against a pergola or wall in a windy site make sure it is tied firmly but not too tight as to damage the stems. However, it probably won't require tying in until later after it has made some good growth. Roses may be bought as bare-root plants (not in a pot or with any soil around the roots) are available in winter and can be planted from June to early August.

Maintenance tips

Mulching annually helps suppress weeds and conserve moisture. Organic materials such as sawdust and bark contribute to soil structure as they decompose but keep mulching material away from the trunk. The first summer and autumn after planting is critical for young plants; water thoroughly during dry periods. Pests and diseases can have serious debilitating effects on young plants; check regularly. A good rule of thumb is to give your roses one deep watering each week in dry times this will ensure the roots look for water themselves. Check stakes and ties for chafing and constriction and loosen if required as the plant grows.

As for feeding your roses, most varieties will do very well with a single feeding in early spring when the leaves start to bud. Give a second feeding just as the first big bloom starts to develop and one more in the middle of the summer to promote later flushes. Use a quality fertiliser (preferably organic) which contains a balance of major nutrients (NPK) and trace elements. The fertiliser should be applied at least once a month – small amount often – with fortnightly applications of liquid seaweed over the foliage. Mulching with well-rotted manure is an alternative.

Pruning roses is pretty easy and for the most part, you are pruning for health and shape. Prune in June or July while the plants are dormant before the leaves open up as it will make it much easier to see what you are doing. 70% of the rose plant should be pruned. Always start off by removing the deadwood, along with any canes that look diseased, any very old wood can be removed back to the crown and the bush pruned to shape. Cut back any lateral canes that overlap one another once the leaves open up. These overlapping canes will compete with one another for sunlight. Shape the rose to whatever general shape you desire but prune to outward facing buds.
Take the opportunity to also rake up dead leaves and debris from around the base of the plant as these can lead to pests and diseases like blackspot re-infecting your plant for the following season. Deadhead regularly throughout the flowering period to help encourage more blooms.

Pests and diseases

Watch out for aphids and black spot.

Companion and combination plants

Garlic, onions, parsley, mignonette and marigolds are all great companion for roses to help ward off aphids.

Location at Auckland Botanic Gardens

Rose Garden

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